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Tags - hummus
"Jerusalem, if I forget you, let my right hand forget what it's supposed to do" - Matisyahu lyrics
Our first day in Israel was somewhat unreal. First, it should be noted that we flew into Tel-Aviv at 5am and did not check into our hostel in Jerusalem (yes, completely different city) until the afternoon; in other words, we were straight to touring from the airplane. It is also important to keep in mind that I still had a full fever while this was going on, but, as usual, ascribed to the "mind over matter" axiom that leads me to (often erroneously) believe that I can kick my own sicknesses into remission, and kept pushing along.
We got off the airplane in an excited frenzy despite the dire lack of sleep and the less than desirable conditions provided by Lot airlines...those two elements quickly became worth it (personal bias here) when we: (a) happened upon the Israeli National Soccer Team at the airport and (b) knelt down in mass to kiss the ground. It was a muggy, hot, dark morning but we were here, we were in Israel!!
Our sojourn began with a visit to Kibbutz Yad Mordechai, which was named after the 26 year-old commander of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. It was oddly anachronistic to be in a place that was named after someone whose bunker we had stood in front of just a few short days earlier. I must say that there could be no more appropriate memorial to Mordechai Analewicz than such a living and continuing place, even more so since this small kibbutz held back overwhelming Egyptian forces for six whole days in 1948, giving the new Israeli army enough time to organize and ultimately defend Tel-Aviv further up the coast. How apropos that a place of such courage should follow in the figurative footsteps of an equally courageous man. After being introduced to the history of the kibbutz, etc, we had breakfast in their kitchen. This was my first taste of hummus and, I have to say, I ate it with incredible and unparalleled contentment! Even the random hummus in a dining hall somewhere in Israel is better than most hummus I have had across the Atlantic. (Sigh) I was so happy! Everyone on the trip knew to expect a minor epileptic attack when I encountered my first taste of hummus, so it was quite amusing for everybody!
After this, we drove to Sderot, an Israeli town that borders Gaza and that is known for suffering almost constant fire rocket fire for seven straight years. We stood upon a hill and looked out into Gaza for the first time, and I must admit it was strange to imagine that in a land that topographically looks exactly the same and that is crowded into such a small space with its neighbors, such conflict could rage so furiously for years. The people in Sderot had to adjust to the situation by building bomb shelters in every conceivable public area - schoolyards, streets, parking lots. If a siren sounds, you have 15 seconds to make it to a secure bomb shelter. I was tired and feverish but I could not avoid being entirely sobered up by standing in the physical location I have read about in so many accounts of the Gaza conflict.
From here we went on to Jerusalem. Our first stop was a panoramic view of the city. Beautiful! Our second stop was the Israel Museum, where we saw an incredible reconstructed model of what the city must have looked like during the Second Temple Period and (wait for it) got to see, in person, the Dead Sea Scrolls. Yes people, only a glass place separated me from these age-old documents (earlier known source of Biblical documents before 100 BCE); it was absolutely surreal!!
Let me briefly interject to say that we then went for lunch in the Arab quarter. First of all, the experience of walking through those streets alone was awesome in my opinion, because they are bustling with vendors, brimming with colors and smells and just, well, ordinary life in most ways. The lunch was at a restaurant that Avi recommended to us and entailed, among other things, hummus and falafel. Despite the loss of appetite that I usually experience when I am ill, I literally ate my weight in falafel while we sat there - it was so incredible!
At this point, we finally checked-into our hostel and had a few hours of much-needed nap and shower time! In the evening, after much-needed naps, showers, and dinners, we walked through the governmental campus (Knesset, Supreme Court) and had some lounge time at Ben Yehuda St, which was bustling with nighttime activity, wonderful life music, and people milling in and out of stores. A couple of us had bagels which, I must admit, were quite possibly The. Best. Bagels. I. Have. Ever. Eaten. So far, the food in Israel was treating me quite well which, as a Cuban woman, I very much appreciated.
During the day we talked about the Israeli banking system, their form of government, some economic aspects, etc...it just peaked my interest to learn more about all these subjects so I essentially walked away with a list of things to research!
I have to say that the feeling of this day was uplifting beyond my expectations. From seeing the work being done at the Kibbutz to the observations I could make from my window on the break-of-day drive from the airport, to the mere feeling I had overlooking Jerusalem under the mid-day summer sun...I couldn't help but notice that we had come from a place of destruction and death to a place of fulfillment and rebirth. Coming from Auschwitz to Jerusalem can do nothing if not take one's breath away with the stark contrast of its very core.
"Strip away the layers and reveal your soul
Give yourself up and then you become whole" - Matisyahu lyrics
Today was an absolutely beautiful experience!! We said our goodbyes to Jerusalem and drove up along the Coastal Road to the ancient city of Ceasarea Maritima. No surprise here, it was also built by Herod the Great, but the most important aspect is that it was literally an invention of genius at the time of its creation! It was the first ever-artificial harbor!! This may not sound too impressive, but imagine literally singing limestone into the ocean and then building an entire harbor and port on top. Thanks to my obsession with the HBO show "Rome," I knew some of the history surrounding Herod's association with Marc Anthony and, as a result, his wish to build a city in honor of Octavius (later known as Augustus) to gain the Cesar's graces...it was nothing short of awe-inspiring to be walking on such a piece of history! Fun fact: Herod brought the Olympics to Ceasarea and created 2nd and 3rd places for the first time!
After a morning in the hot Israeli sun at Caesarea, we made our way to Nazareth and had a finger-licking-good lunch of falafel and hummus (no surprise there!).
A nice vendor also gave us some baklava for free! For being the place where Jesus spent his childhood, it is shocking to see that Nazareth population currently consists almost exclusively of Arabs... it is somewhat alarming in light of the billboards we saw there (one of them is pictured in my photos for this post).
This particular sign was placed directly in front of the Basilica of the Annunciation, the largest church in the Middle East. Ridiculous, absolutely inexcusable. There is a really interesting story associated with the sign (and the mosque on which it is posted), so if you're interested, ask me!
In the evening, we settled into our hostel and had a long advocacy-themed discussion with Dr. David Brog, sitting out under the stars. Afterwards, as would be our custom for the remaining nights we spent in Israel, we took our some hookahs, bought some Israeli beers, brought out some blankets from our rooms, and spent the evening under nightfall's cooler breeze.