We recently attended a very interesting weekend program in Safed (pronounced Tzfat) in northern Israel. Home to more than 30,000 Jews, most of them religious, Safed is one of Judaism's four holy cities. (The others are Jerusalem, Tiberias, and Hebron.) Safed gained that honor from its association with mysticism and the great rabbis who flocked there. It is known as the center of study of the Kabbalah, a very complicated and esoteric Jewish philosophy.

Safed first appeared in Jewish sources in the late Middle Ages. It is mentioned in the Jerusalem Talmud as one of five elevated spots where fires were lit to announce the New Moon and festivals during the Second Temple period. It is most famous as the place where the study of Kabbalah emerged. Famous rabbis like Joseph Caro and Issac Luria (H'Ari -- the Lion) lived in Safed in the 16th century. Residents and tourists can visit and pray in tiny synagogues associated with both of these giants, as well as in the many other unique synagogues.

Located at nearly 3,000 feet in the Galilee mountains, Safed has the highest elevation of any Israeli city. It’s population is also among the country’s youngest and poorest. Just 25 years after the 1492 expulsion from Spain, the Ottomans conquered Palestine and the Sultan invited the Jews to move there to enrich his empire. Some came to Safed, to capitalize on the already existing terraces, flour mills, water channels, and bridges next to the Amud River. The Jews created a center for the production of high-quality woolen fabrics by converting the flour mills into fulling mills. The woolens were then exported to customers all over Europe.

Rabbi David de Rossi, who visited Safed in 1535, wrote: “Many Jews are arriving all the time and the clothing [textile] business is growing every day… and every man and woman who works in wool at any trade will earn a good living.” But in 1576-77, Sultan Murad III, the first anti-Jewish Ottoman ruler, ordered the deportation of many of the Jews of Safed to Cyprus, leading to the decline of the woolen industry in the area. Eventually, Arabs became predominant in Safed. The city didn't regain its Jewish majority until Israel's War of Independence.

In the last few decades, the town has taken on a creative, artistic, slightly hippie atmosphere, with many colorfully garbed newly-religious residents. Since the 1950s, Safed has always had an active artists’ colony. In addition to these groups, there is a large Hasidic community.

We came to town to attend a seminar at Ascent: “Ascent is a place where you can learn and experience the spiritual and inner aspects of Torah,” says Chabad-Lubavitch Rabbi Mordechai ‘Big Mo’ Siev, director of outreach and English programming at the part-yeshiva, part-hostel, part-retreat center that is Ascent. (See www.ascentofsafed.com and www.chabad.org ) We joined a group of about forty people at Chabad’s centrally located “hotel” in Safed. The accommodations are spartan, but adequate; the food is plain but plentiful; the atmosphere is totally liberal and welcoming. The subject of the program we attended was the Rambam (Moshe ben Maimon, Maimonides), one of Judaism’s stellar personalities. It is said that, “from Moshe [Moses] to Moshe [Maimonides] there was only Moshe.” If you can appreciate this saying, meaning that Maimonides was the spiritual heir of Moses, then you may also want to enjoy Chadbad’s hospitality.

Ascent is a virtual beehive of activity. Among our group were people of all ages, couples and singles, undergraduates and some in the process of taking graduate degrees. In addition to our group, the center was full of young Chabadniks, mostly couples, as well as many soldiers. The IDF sends large groups of soldiers to Safed to introduce them to Judaism’s spiritual heritage. The young soldiers got right into the spirit of Shabbat, joining in the singing, dancing (separate for men and women), and many toasts.

The centerpiece of our weekend was a series of lectures by the young medical doctor, Gil Shachar: Healthy Eating for Healthy Living - according to Maimonides. Shachar, who studied Torah and nutrition while attending medical school at the Technion in Haifa, explained that nutrition is not a subject that gets much attention during medical doctors’ education. Maimonides (1135-1204), famous for his religious, philosophical, and medical accomplishments, wrote much about diet that is just being “discovered” today. Shachar covered topics such as what foods to eat, when to eat, and in what order to eat your food. By the time we had heard all Shachar’s lectures, we were left with the choice of almost totally changing the way we eat, or taking Maimonides’ teachings “with a grain of salt.”

Several of the highlights of the weekend: the excellent tour that Big Mo gave. We walked through the Old City into several of the ancient synagogues, where Big Mo explained the significance of the rabbis who built them and the artifacts that were located in them. We enjoyed the fantastic views and the great shops and galleries in the Artists’ Colony. I had the opportunity to visit the mikvah (ritual purification bath taken by Jews on certain occasions) said to have been used by H’Ari, which was a unique experience for me. Nearby was the grave of H’Ari and other venerated rabbis. Another highlight of the weekend was the home hospitality for Shabbat dinner that was extended to all Ascent participants. They did a great job of matching us with a wonderful family who lived nearby in a beautifully renovated home. Shimonit, our lovely hostess, and her very talented and charming daughter had prepared a fabulous dinner. We enjoyed the songs and the prayers, which were slightly different from those we’re used to. Our host, Hillel, gave a beautiful kiddush (blessing over the wine), toasts were plentiful throughout the meal, and there was the customary “Dvar Torah” for our spiritual enlightenment. It was educational and not too esoteric for us.

Hillel, a successful businessman who travels the world representing a kibbutz industry, told us that he always wears his Hasidic garb and has never had any negative consequences from expressing his faith. The family is originally from South Africa. Later, we were joined by their friends, a couple from America. Haim is an author who has written on erudite subjects, including his latest book on the expected Third Temple to be rebuilt in Jerusalem. The conversation, which touched on the teachings of American Buddhist, Alan Watts, was varied and very stimulating.

On the last morning of the weekend, we met Big Mo on a sun-lit porch with the Galilee mountains as a gorgeous backdrop. The subject was a passage from Pirke Avot, Sayings of Our Fathers. The essence of the talk was the instruction to look at the world as if “everything” is hanging in the balance, because it is. What I do, can effect my life and the entire situation, for the good or the bad. Torah is the unifying link between God and creation. It teaches us to live for a higher goal, not just for mundane reasons; to leave the negative stuff behind and return to one’s original, good nature: “tshuva”. Return starts with your first thought of change, before any other action.  Big Mo concluded his talk with the thought that material things are neutral. What you do with them is crucial and is up to you. Are you benefiting the world with your good fortune or just yourself?

If you have any questions, just contact Big Mo:  Siev@ascentofsafed.com

We thoroughly enjoyed the weekend with Ascent in Safed. It was a fascinating contrast to our usual lifestyle. Certainly, we will consider returning for another installment in making our life richer and more meaningful. Steve Kramer is an expert in touring Israel and he also blogs for Travelujah. See his new book at www.encounteringisrael.com. People can learn, plan and share their Holy Land tour and travel experiences on Travelujah.