Shiloh - in the Biblical heartland

Shiloh - just as you read it... In the Biblical heartland

Shiloh is so full of history - the kind I have poured hours over - reading and mail-exchange with David Rubin, today former mayor of Shiloh and author of, God, Israel and Shiloh. So much so, I sensed a need to be there and experience the walk up to the place where the Ark of the Covenant once rested for 369 years; stand in the synagogue where childless Hannah gave birth to her son Samuel who became the great Prophet of Israel; just be there where hero Joshua divided the land among the ten tribes; even a meeting ground for future love stories...

And this came to be when I made my visit to Israel last October. The world calls the place, West Bank. I still prefer it the way it was, Biblical Samaria. It is an hour's drive from Jerusalem. The winding roads we drove through from Jerusalem, I later learned was the famed Route 60 (today, 'slightly re-routed and re-paved', according to David) - the Road of the Patriarchs (Abraham, Isaac and Jacob) and also one that many would avoid today as it continues to be in the news for shooting attacks, including causalities. As we passed a road between 2 looming mountains that led through Bethel, our guide Yaron's voice boomed in the quiet of the bus, 'This is called the Eye of the Thieves'.

I remember the pulsing of nerves and the blood rush into my head and breathed heavily shooting a prayer-whisper. My adventure had begun. I gauged the possibility of the area we were in. Could this be the road on which David and his three-year-old son were both seriously wounded in a drive-by shooting on the road home? Flashes of images in David's book ran like a film-scroll, but I sat still thanking the Eternal One for allowing me to experience what my heart cherished in this travel to Israel. It was a dream come true and nothing would stop it. It was when I shared my experience with an internet friend Mary (who I chanced to meet in Jerusalem while visiting the Dominus Flevit church, located down the slopes of the Mt. of Olives); I realized what an exciting trip this was among the others. "We too visited West bank in an armored vehicle...." And ours was an ordinary 50-seater tourist bus!

Honestly, my heart skipped a beat, returning to the reality of the interiors of the tourist bus. I wanted to shut Yaron up from saying anything further. What set this emotional reaction in me was that I had accepted to co-ordinate this trip with 55 people, who had no idea of this place. This was an optional trip that I was to make personally. I shared this with a friend who wanted to join me and the rest of the group joining in was a result of the way the news spread. And so, it was that all of us were on the way.

Since this was a Jewish community and within the area and there are threats from terrorism in the area, it was recommended that we had a Jewish driver with us. Our appointed time was a Sunday morning. The itinerary arranged by David intrigued me more and reinforced my decision to 'Have to be in' Shiloh. It included the Samuel's Heights; visit to the 'Tent of Shiloh' to meet the people and children there; Tel Shiloh for an audio-video presentation; the site where the tabernacle stood for 369 years passing by the Byzantine Church remains, the mosaic floors, Eli's cave, synagogue of Hannah's prayer.

Shiloh is best described in location as in the Biblical heartland. Best described by one who lives there, David Rubin, as, 'It is a town that possesses amazing natural beauty and spiritual significance. It is the cradle of Jewish civilization and nationhood, the source of Jewish prayer and worship and the epitome of Israel's faith.' It is aptly referred in the Bible as "the resting" place. Accurately, as the Scriptures place it, Shiloh is located north of Bethel, on the east highway that goes up from Bethel to Shechem.. (Ref: Book of Judges 21:19). I wondered how Bible hero Joshua would have addressed to the people at the time. Recently, research has established that Shiloh was located in a place that would possess extraordinary acoustical properties. This configuration of the landscape would have facilitated communication by the priests when the people came to sacrifice.

David Rubin met us at the gate at Tel Shiloh. After introductions and a brief history on Shiloh, we moved on to the school to meet the children. It was an enthusiastic 2nd Grade, I'd say. They sang a blessing in Hebrew for all of us. Emotions moved in waves within each of us, some wiping eyes and a few moving into the children's petting zoo and play area, just to be with them. Pictures and greeting exchanged we moved on with David to the site of the Ark. The walk was a long blunt climb, but every step was like prodding on history. Flashbacks of what might have been thoughts and feelings of those living here then and now meandered. My mind's eye worked, I could see a lone man on a mountain-top blowing the Shofar, the young maidens dancing, shepherds' herding sheep....

The audio-visual was a good introduction before setting out to begin the tour. This was followed by a stop-over at a room where the model of the Tabernacle was displayed for explanation. Stories literally came to life. To think we actually walked on the spot that Joshua spoke to the leaders of the tribes, where Hannah prayed for her son Samuel and the prophet's selfless walk. We passed by the archeological exactions of the Byzantine Church and came to the High Priest Eli's apartment.

We passed by caves (which I later learnt as I re-read David's book), are burial caves that archeologists have discovered, as well as a cave near the Tabernacle site, which most likely was the dwelling place, perhaps for the High Priests of the Tabernacle. Excavations for newer discoveries are underway.

Seeing nature in its awesome splendor, my eyes followed the winding Route 60. I turned and thought to myself, ".. the road probably drives into Shechem. Someday?" Some decided to rest here, while the few of us continued our discovery-mission to where God's presence dwelt. I heard the 82-year old lady remark, "This is once in a lifetime...." As we got closer, my heart thumped in excitement. The feeling was so perfect - tranquil with a light breeze blowing - I could even feel those private personal moments in the few of us there.. As for my personal moment, I put all that I had read in the Bible, before coming and hearing David sharing and bringing to life - Samuel the Prophet playing around as a young boy, people living their daily lives, young beautiful maidens dancing in the vineyards as the young Benjamin watched eagerly for their perfect matches, the men carrying the Ark, building the site, etc.,

I was living amidst the Scriptures in surrounding history!

Bible history has it that it was in Shiloh that the first permanent Tabernacle was placed since the exodus from Egypt. Its presence made Shiloh the centre, to which the Children of Israel would come 4 times a year to worship God, during festivals. The dimensions of the tabernacle, as laid out in the Bible are justified in the rectangular space at the site.

A delicious Israeli lunch of falafel with drinks was provided to us. We spent time Bible-speaking fellowship with David and Nomi who Chef-ed our meal. The visit to the Souvenir store was on the way to the bus. On my way back to the bus after the visit, I was leaving back something and would I ever return? I have already made up my mind..

This was my kind of travel - to not the much publicized places, but the remote ones that were still 'gems'. My vision by this time was set to Road 60 from Beersheva to Shechem. I must confess, it did raise eyebrows. Yet experience has it, hat I have always done what I have decided! So I wait...